From Romania to Milan to Paris: take a walk in Amina Muaddi’s shoes

The cult footwear designer reveals how different cultures have influenced her style – and how to turn criticism into self-confidence

Saturday 16 July By Laurianne Melierre Makeup by Andreea Ali Hairstylist: Ciaria Constenoble Photographer: Kenny Germé Styling: Dan Sablon

No matter what those two seasons of Emily in Paris would have you believe, the click-clack of high heels on pavement is a rare thing in Paris. Not that that’s stopped footwear designer Amina Muaddi from setting up shop in the heart of the French capital.

When we meet its July. Fashion Week. Couture. Amina Muaddi is a woman in a hurry, and it seems to have been the case ever since she was born. ‘I’ve lived all over the place,’ she says. ‘I was born in Romania, grew up in Jordan, studied fashion in Milan, went to New York before going back to Milan, and then settled here in Paris. ‘Each of the places I have lived in represents a particular period of my life. They say something about me, my history, what I learnt there. But above all, it’s the fact that I have overcome positive and negative experiences in each of these places that has forged my character and made me the woman I am today.’

Muaddi is a frank and open interviewee, readily discussing the family problems of her early life in Romania, having to be brave alongside of her mother after relocating to Jordan – who left everything behind to rebuild her life with her daughter – and the challenges of laying down roots when you move from place to place. It was in Milan, where she studied at the European Institute of Design, that Muaddi made her long-time dream of working in fashion a reality, before moving to New York, where she took up a role as a fashion assistant. Then it was back to Milan, where her first brand, Oscar Tiye, revealed not only her enthusiasm, but her roadblocks and uncertainties, too. ‘Setting up a brand requires sacrifices that only passion can allow for. When I co-founded my first shoe label at the age of 26, I didn’t know what it meant to be the head of my own business; I didn’t know how hard it would be to set up an exceptional supply chain. But the mistakes I made still nourish my work today.’

Six years later, she left Oscar Tiye and with it Milan. It was one of the decisions she considers ‘the most difficult of my life’, but which led her to Paris four years ago. ‘As is often the case, I needed a physical move to make a new start,’ she says. ‘To move is to hit the reset button. I chose Paris for its energy, its creativity, its bustle, which reminded me of New York. It’s at the crossroads of my identities: Paris is a more cosmopolitan city and more open to the world than Milan, while remaining close to Italy where my suppliers are located.’

If the energy of a city can impact a life, it can also influence personal style. It’s something Muaddi has noticed in all the cities she has lived in. Each one has left its mark on her, influencing her tastes, her vision of fashion, her perspectives. ‘Miami taught me to own my femininity, that very sexy look. New York was about active, sporty silhouettes. Milan is Italian chic, with that kind of old school elegance that shows off a bit too.’ And that is the story that Amina Muaddi designs tell. Sexy, proud, look-at-me, ostentatious, assertive – they wear every bit as much as they are worn. ‘As women, we will always be criticised for our appearance, so we might as well have fun in the process.’

In Paris, as in so many other cities, she has been on the receiving end of comments about her appearance not only in the street, but also the workplace. ‘As a racialised woman and an entrepreneur, I have often been the subject of side looks from the fashion industry,’ Muaddi says. ‘But every negative comment made me stronger and pushed me to work twice as hard to prove the opposite and achieve excellence. Make no mistake, I’m not fighting for the backbiters, I’m fighting for myself and my customers, who have always been there. You can’t be denied the success you are entitled to.’

When asked if the self-confidence she carries from city to city, country to country and culture to culture, comes from her family, Amina pauses. She thinks about it, and then smiles. ‘My self-confidence has nothing to do with the way my family brought me up. You don’t learn confidence, you feel it. Mine comes from the way my mother always told me I was the best, that I could do it. She’s a real lioness. No doubt I take after her.’ Having spent time with her, we agree.

Where to find Amina Muaddi in Paris

As an inhabitant of the city, Amina Muaddi has seen the many faces of the French capital, many of them rarely shown to tourists. Here’s her Paris, in seven hotspots.

‘My offices are in the 8th arrondissement. I love the calm of the neighbourhood, the wholesome, polite tranquillity. I often walk my dog in Parc Monceau. Living in Paris also means constantly trying to seek out nature. I often go to the Bois de Boulogne and the Fondation Louis Vuitton, which is like a green retreat on the edge of the city. I’m also regularly in Le Marais, a neighbourhood I love for its creativity, its village feel, its teeming, narrow streets and its eternal youth.

‘You have, of course, been able to find me in Soho House Paris ever since it opened just over a year ago. Having so much space for meetings, but also downtime in the middle of the city is priceless. And because Paris wouldn’t be Paris without it, I still can’t help but stare at the Eiffel Tower every time I’m in the 7th or driving along the Seine in a taxi. Whether you’re Parisian or not, the truth is that you never get tired of it. It’s a gift that keeps on giving.’