Where Food Lovers Eat: Matt Abergel

Just a stone’s throw from Soho House Hong Kong, Yardbird Hong Kong is a culinary stalwart. Described by The New York Times as a ‘clubhouse’ for chefs stopping over in the city, it’s become known for its tantalising recipe of binchōtan-grilled yakitori chicken skewers, considered drinks list, sleek interiors and lively cast of regulars from the local creative community.

Founded by Canadians Lindsay Jang and Matt Abergel, it was the latter’s childhood summers spent visiting his father in Israel that inspired Yardbird Hong Kong’s communally minded, beak-to-tail menu. ‘Every Saturday, we would have barbecues at my dad’s house when I was there. We’d be outdoors and grilling chicken hearts in an oil barrel that had been cut in half,’ he recalls. ‘[The atmosphere] was very boisterous and loud, a lot of people just talking over each other. Israeli culture is very high-strung in a lot of other ways, [with] war and day-to-day life being so stressful, so when it comes to eating, they really let loose.’

This food culture has carried over to Yardbird Hong Kong, where a lack of pretence is the order of the day. ‘There’s just nothing dishonest, no garnishes that aren’t supposed to be eaten,’ says Abergel. ‘When you eat chicken on a stick, there’s very little formality and I think that’s why people feel comfortable, because it disarms everybody.’

On Thursday 9 January, Abergel took over the kitchen at Soho House Hong Kong to recreate the Israeli family meals and street food of his childhood – a boon for the city’s legions of yakitori enthusiasts looking for insight into the chef’s unique brand of no-frills hospitality. And much like a typical meal at Yardbird Hong Kong, the menu was designed for diners to get messy, with dishes of falafel, abalone shawarma, pickles, salads and sauces to be served in quick succession, bound together by warm pita bread sourced from Israel.

Following the night, Abergel introduced some of his favourite restaurants across Israel for an authentic taste of the region’s cuisine.

Jasmino, Tel Aviv, Israel

‘Simple, hearty Israeli street food at its best. Charcoal-grilled meats are thrown into a pita and topped with freshly chopped vegetables, grilled onions, peppers, tahini, and amba. No place to sit. No bullshit.’

North Abraxas, Tel Aviv, Israel

‘One of Eyal Shani’s many restaurants, this place is a hyper-seasonal kind of tapas bar. The energy is amazing, the food is delicious, and it’s truly one of the most intriguing types of restaurants to see work – a beautiful, organised chaos.’

Milgo and Milbar, Tel Aviv, Israel

‘A restaurant where my little brother once worked and where I eventually got to know the owner and chefs. It’s a great modern expression of Tel Aviv, with warm hospitality and delicious food.’

Falafel Orion, Haifa, Israel

‘Located in a shopping mall, this is one of my favourite falafel spots. The falafels themselves aren’t seasoned with herbs or spices (like most other falafel) – they're just perfect small balls of crispy chickpeas. These are my ideal.’

Dolphin, Haifa, Israel

‘I couldn’t tell you if the food is truly amazing in reality, but from the memories I have eating with my grandfather and cousins here, it’s the quintessential Israeli seafood feast, with grilled and fried fresh Mediterranean seafood and an endless assortment of salads and side dishes.’