Discover Manchester’s member-run brand, Private White V.C.

The history of Manchester’s textile industry is a rich one. Often described as the world’s first industrial city, cotton production exploded in and around the surrounding county in the early 19th century, turning the city into the global centre for clothing manufacturing of its day. 

While Manchester may no longer be the beating hub of the world’s textile industry, menswear brand Private White V.C. – which was established in 1853 – continues to celebrate these traditional methods while also keeping pace with the city’s creative heartbeat.

Now, as we look towards the opening of Soho House Manchester, we’re shining a light on the creative community that makes the city such an exciting place. We met member James Eden – CEO of Private White V.C. and great-grandson of its eponymous founder – to discuss the city’s impressive fashion heritage and why sometimes to move forwards, it pays to look towards the past.

What’s the story behind the brand?

‘Private White V.C. is the name of my great-grandfather. He was a private in the First World War and awarded the Victoria Cross for his heroics in Mesopotamia in 1917. After the war, he returned to civilian life as a regional hero and pursued an apprenticeship in his local factory. 

‘Back in the 1920s, Manchester was still referred to as ‘Cottonopolis’. There were hundreds of clothing factories employing tens of thousands of people. He worked his way up from apprentice to pattern cutter, to foreman supervisor then to general manager. Eventually he became the owner of the factory until he passed away at the end of the 1940s. Every single Private White V.C. garment is still handmade in the very same red-bricked mill on the banks of the River Irwell where Private Jack White V.C. began his textiles career.’

Where do you find inspiration for Private White V.C.? 

‘We’re obsessed with craft and quality. Every single yarn, material and component needs to be the very best. There are no shortcuts. Nothing is outsourced. Each item is handmade in our own factory in Manchester. Our garments whisper instead of roar. 

‘We have one of the largest reference archives in Europe, with over 10,000 vintage pieces, and so for me everything starts with an original garment. For every garment we have a pattern, and for every pattern we have a corresponding spec and costing sheet that can date back to the early 1930s. Military clothing is the principal source of inspiration for me – it was designed to be functional first and foremost. For us, function and comfort are inextricably linked. Typically, we design 12 months in advance to allow us plenty of time to sweat over the small details.’

Manchester and its manufacturing history is so interwoven with the brand – why is this important?

‘The city is at the heart of everything we do. We are immensely proud of Manchester’s transformational role during the Industrial Revolution and we’re determined to re-establish it back on the global map, as a region that produces some of the world’s finest clothing. We aren’t inclined to change many of the time-honoured techniques that have been honed in Manchester over the years. That being said, we're dynamic and modern too – we coined the phrase “Techno-Retro” to encapsulate what we are all about.’

Why is Manchester such an exciting place to be right now?

‘I love the dynamism and versatility of the city. There is an unrivalled kaleidoscopic culture that cannot be found anywhere else in the UK. In our factory, we have over 22 nationalities from all different backgrounds, religions, and political persuasions who come together each day determined to make some of the finest clothing in the world. This sort of drive and determination is impossible to replicate and I’m not sure any other city than Manchester would have allowed us to survive and indeed flourish as we have over the years.

‘Soho House Manchester will be a fantastic addition to the city ¬– and just a six-minute stroll from the Private White V.C. factory. I’d love members to get in touch and I will personally take them on an all-access tour.’

Soho House members receive 20% off online at PrivateWhiteVC.com – enter SOHOHOUSE20 at checkout (exclusions apply). Private White V.C. is also offering complimentary personalised embroidery to members on selected items in its Manchester store.