Food & Drink
Where Food Lovers Eat: Brat’s Tomos Parry
Brat, known for its whole turbot grilled over charcoal, is one of London’s most talked-about restaurants of the year and, as of 2019, the proud owner of a Michelin star. And the Welshman behind it, 32-year-old Tomos Parry, is now one of its most talked-about chefs. On 17 August, Parry leads the line-up at Soho Farmhouse’s Festival of Food with a three-course dinner in the Barwell Barn, joining Cook for Syria, Henrietta Inman and Rachel Khoo. Here, Parry talks Brat, cooking over fire and restaurant energy – and shares his favourite food spots outside the capital.
Tell us about Brat…
Brat is a mix of all the places I have worked in previously. I tried to create a restaurant that I would like to dine in and a kitchen environment I hope is exciting to work in – one that keeps all the old London details combined with the bars of the Basque country.
Can you give us a sneak peak of the menu you’ll be serving at Farmhouse?
I’m looking forward to cooking on its fire-pits and grills. We’ll do whole aged ducks cooked with hay as well as wood-fired cheesecake and leeks with fresh cheese – all dishes we do at Brat. I’m trying to source seasonal produce from as many suppliers in the Farmhouse area as possible.
What do you look for in a restaurant?
A good energy and a feeling of being transported elsewhere. The food and produce is very important but the whole experience is equally as important.
Tomos Parry’s four top picks outside London:
Where The Light Gets In, Stockport
Super-local and seasonal, with exciting produce, a beautiful room and a forward-thinking approach to cooking and wine. No menu – they just serve what’s best that week from their farm, with natural and interesting wines.
The Sportsman, Whitstable
A big influence on me and Brat, The Sportsman is essentially a pub, but one that exquisitely executes classic British dishes, influenced by the great masters of French cuisine. It’s unpretentious, original and has great staff – all in a lovely pub setting near the sea.
The Art Shop & Chapel, Abergavenny
Everything is locally sourced from the surrounding areas of Wales. Impeccable ingredients cooked simply – and a very relaxed and idyllic outdoor space set in the Welsh valleys.
Prawn on the Lawn, Padstow
One of the best fish restaurants on the English coast, Prawn on the Lawn serves super-fresh seafood from Cornwall. They have a refreshing approach and a really good relationship with the local fishermen. The menu changes daily – I order whatever they tell me is best.
Tomos Parry is cooking a three-course dinner at the Farmhouse Festival of Food on 17 August. Tickets are £65 per head. Book your tickets here.