Meet the six young designers who owned New York Fashion Week

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

From architectural silhouettes to subversive club-ready looks, the city’s young creatives stole the show

By Hazel Ong

New York Fashion Week was the buzziest it’s been for a while this season, and although the big labels (we’re looking at you Fendi and Marni) had their place, a slew of emerging names stole the show. 

So, to help you get ahead of the American designers you should be wearing right now, we’re here to shine a light on the six most exciting emerging names from the SS23 shows. 

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

Luar 

Titled ‘La Alta Gama’, Spanish for ‘the high end’, Luar brought 1980s Dominican luxury to his runway. Reimagined power suiting in pinstripe, navy, khaki and black incorporated strong shoulders with delicate draping. White button-ups worn with branded neckties reminiscent of Catholic grade-school uniforms were layered under croc and ostrich embossed leather blazers and overcoats. Luar’s offering of accessories included leather mules, an ‘L’ logo belt, and a larger version of his signature Ana bag, of course, in croc leather and pony hair to add a touch of alta gama to our spring wardrobes. 

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

Bad Binch TONGTONG

Making his NYFW debut, Chinese-born designer Terrence Zhou brought what could be described as sculptural art to the runway. Aptly, the [missing word] was mounted in the Richard Taittinger Gallery where shapes like a fantastical butterfly, a brocade mermaid tail, an octo-legged form and large spherical structures connected with a sinew of fabric, danced through the gallery space. It’s clear that Zhou looks to nature and organic shapes when designing (or rather, engineering) his unconventional pieces. You may not see some of these looks walking down the street, but that’s because they’re made for bad ‘binches’ only.

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

Anna Bolina

Anna Bolina’s SS23 collection is not for the faint of heart. The self-taught designer’s subversive club wear leaves little to the imagination, which is exactly how she likes it. If the tube dress from her previous season, emblazoned with the declaration to ‘wear whatever you want no one gives a f**k… who are you trying to impress?’ doesn’t make her design philosophy clear enough, this collection cements it. Inspired by evening wear, elements like satin, tulle, sheer fabrics, stretchy fishnet, cut outs and holes in all the right places are seemingly fit for a different type of evening.

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

Theophilio

The vibrant energy of J’ouvert was palpable at Theophilio’s sophomore show where Jamaica-born designer Edvin Thompson, winner of the 2021 CFDA American Emerging Designer of the Year award, reminded us what 1990s luxury looks and feels like. Bejewelled ‘I heart TP’ logos, string bikinis in snakeskin, micro miniskirts and slinky maxi dresses were overt nods to Tom Ford-era Gucci. As an ever-present influence in his work, Thompson’s Jamaican heritage showed up in colour-blocked trousers and skirts in green, black and red leather. Standouts came in the form of printed pieces interwoven in various forms throughout the collection with the message ‘it’s a family ting!’

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

No Sesso

Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph, the design duo from No Sesso looked to ‘black punk’ this season. Setting the tone, the first look paid homage to Serena Williams – a sheer black ensemble with pleated skirt detailing, likely not tournament approved, but Williams-worthy nonetheless. Glossy, sheer, nylon dresses and two-piece sets with asymmetrical cut outs used cinching and drawstring cord locks as functional embellishments. Playing on proportions, we saw super-high waists and even higher hems, as well as micro triangle bikinis and a G-string worn over bike shorts combination. The brand’s evolution is plain to see, but the provocative energy No Sesso is known for still remains.

Meet the six young designers that owned New York Fashion Week | Soho House

Lucky Jewel

Making its runway debut this season, Lucky Jewel is a brand and collective made up of trio Shay Gallagher, Olive Woodward and Lola Dement Myers who were originally based in Chicago. With a very relatable brand slogan like ‘shopping is a feeling’, you wouldn’t know the collection is completely made of recycled materials and that ‘shopping’ doesn’t and shouldn’t have to mean ‘brand new’. Standout pieces like the cropped vests secured together with a couple of hook and eyes, as well as several of the low-slung trousers looked like they could have been part of a three-piece pantsuit in their past lives. Natural edged leather suede panels were seen throughout the collection, most memorably as a layered miniskirt and a silver wrap halter top. It’s refreshing to see this fledgling brand champion the use of recycled materials in an authentic and fresh way. 

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