Daniëlle Cathari on creative collaboration
As she launches her fourth collection with Woolrich, the Dutch designer talks finding inspiration at the Houses and bringing her own design aesthetic to the label
Wednesday 31 May 2023 By Teo van den Broeke Photography by Juan Veloz Assisted by Joey Abreu Hair by Nia Valcin Makeup by Esther Foster Digi tech by Derek Wooden Daniëlle Cathari was photographed at Soho Warehouse in Downtown LA
If Parisian fashion is all about crafted elegance and Milanese style, full-throttle zhuzh, then Amsterdam is the cradle of easy-wearing, functional gear with a playful edge. It’s an approach embodied by Dutch designer Daniëlle Cathari, who recently unveiled her fourth collection with American outerwear label Woolrich.
‘I often take a classic item as a starting point and give my take on it, adding an unexpected element or a subtle twist on the fit or construction,’ Cathari says, fresh from her shoot at Soho Warehouse in LA. ‘I always think of how a woman should feel. I aim to create sophisticated and timeless but also playful designs.’
The resulting capsule consists of low-key staple pieces with a subversive edge. There’s an ultra-wearable trench coat, a bandeau top in wool boucle and a bomber jacket embroidered with swans. Founded in Pennsylvania in 1830, Woolrich is globally renowned for producing element-tackling outerwear and separates, and its mood afforded a contemporary edge by Cathari’s easy approach to femininity.
Above: Skirt, approx £238, Woolrich x Daniëlle Cathari. Top and jewellery, all Cathari’s own
‘If I had to pick one item in the collection, it’d be the trench coat,’ says Cathari. ‘It’s such a timeless piece, but with subtle elements like a detachable pocket in the belt and dark green detailing, which you’ll only see when wearing the collar up. I also really like the silk and wool-blend scarves.’
Cathari’s eponymous brand focuses on ‘complimenting contrasts’, meaning she mixes elevated fabrics, such as silk and wool with nylon and football jersey, to create off-kilter pieces: part streetwear, part future-forward everyday gear. She’s collaborated with adidas (Kendall Jenner has modelled her designs) and boasts just under 100k followers on Instagram (an important measure of success in today’s social media-obsessed world).
Cathari, a Soho House member, called on her experience around the Houses as inspiration for the Woolrich capsule. ‘The collection embodies the elegance and calmness of being outdoors,’ Cathari exudes. ‘The English countryside, where Soho Farmhouse is located, is exactly what I had in mind while creating it.’
Is Soho Farmhouse Cathari’s favourite club? ‘I have many. It’s always nice to have some sort of home during fashion weeks and business trips.’ She laughs. ‘My favourite memories are meeting new, inspiring people. And late-night eating of the cookies they leave in your room – they’re the best.’